Adjusting wedges for concrete fence

Buy adjusting wedges for concrete fence at Intergard?

Adjusting wedges, adjusting wedge for adjusting the concrete slabs of the concrete fence. Plates are first wedged in order to subsequently grout them. Packed per 100 pieces. You use 2 wedges per concrete slab.

This is how you place your concrete fence

Stabilization Processing

Stabilization is necessary to secure the posts in the ground:

1. For each starting post or corner post (90°), it is best to work with 3 bags of fast concrete (chemical composition of different products), as these posts can use extra stability.

2. For the intermediate posts you can use broken concrete, available in 25 kg bags from Intergard: mix 50 kg of this ecological and 100% recycled concrete with 8 to 10 kg of cement to a homogeneous mixture. This solution is 3 to 4 cheaper than quick concrete and more than strong enough to anchor our concrete posts.

Height determination

3. Place the first post in the ground at the desired location with the correct closing height. Then tip the stabilization into the hole around the post. Fix the post by tamping down well, eg with a wooden tamper.

4. At the end of the end wall, place a profile (= wooden straight beam) perpendicular to the ground and secure it with a brace support board.

5. With a pencil, draw a line on the first post at a height of 40 cm (measured from the bottom of the groove).

6. Transfer this height to the profile with a spirit level or laser. Attach a first cord at the level of the marked line. This way you can quickly and correctly place each bottom plate at the same height. Tip Measure under the first cord over the entire length for further placement. Check whether the bottom of the first slab is at least a few centimeters in the ground everywhere (certainly not above the foundation). If necessary, raise or lower the first cord.

Tip Measure under the first cord over the entire length for further placement. Check whether the underside of the first plate is at least a few centimeters in the ground (certainly not above the foundation). Place if necessary the first cord higher or lower. Continuation of the placement 1. Now that the lower cord is tensioned at the correct height, fasten you put a second cord on the post + profile. Do this at a height equal to a multiple of 40 cm, eg 1.60 m or 2.00 m height. 2. The purpose of the second cord is to bring the posts to the correct height places, but also to fix the posts sideways in a straight line to put in the ground. Also check with this second cord whether the plates in a straight line. 3. Dig a hole in front of it 2 meters from the groove of the previous post the next pole. The depth of the hole can be determined directly with the bottom cord. eg. 95 cm slot posts = 40 cm slot + 55 cm base Tip With a very soft surface, it is best to put a stone or piece of vowel under it the pole. This prevents it from sinking during installation. 4. Then place at ± 30 cm & 1.70 m - measured from the slot towards the next post - a tile/clinker very firmly at ± 38 cm under the bottom cord. This tile ensures that the plates that you place on top of each other do not sink into the ground. Now can the plates are placed on top of each other. 5. After placing 3 - 4 plates on top of each other, place the next post diagonally into the hole. Then push him against the plates. Aim this post along the sides with the 2 cords and place it at the correct height with the top cord. 6. Repeat steps 3 and 4 until the end of the closure. Tip Hang the top cord at eye level in multiples of 40cm (= height of first plate). Draw a pencil line on each side of the pole at the same height as that of the top cord. This is how you put when placing each pole at the same height. Only then fix the post with stabilization: fill up to the bottom of the bottom plate with stabilization. 7. When the wall is placed 3 to 4 plates high, slide the following plates (if any) along the top of the post using a scaffold. ATTENTION! If necessary, remove the burr from the plates with a shovel or grinding wheel. Eliminate height differences 8. If the terrain is not level, the wall can different heights (tiered). This level difference is created by pressing one side of the bottom plate to grind out the height of the stairs (e.g. 10 cm) about a width of 4 cm. For example, the plate sinks 10 cm deeper than the preceding element. Tip It is best to work with level differences of 10 cm or multiples thereof. 9. To make a staircase you grind - from the foregoing element and on the side where the increase is to be made - the desired height (eg 10 cm) from the bottom plate. So can you put the pole higher than the previous pole. It the next element is then automatically higher than the previous element Adjusting the plates (where necessary) 10. If you now look horizontally over the plates, it may be that the plates do not line up nicely. In that case, place a lever (e.g. wooden bridge on its high side) under a element. This way you can push the whole thing up on the side (as much as necessary). If necessary you can leave the element bags: you do that by knock the stone down on which the plates are placed. Finishing: wedge and grout 11. To finish the whole thing, wedge the plates into the post with the supplied adjusting wedges. Keying is done along one side (with especially the rear). 12. Grout the plates with joint mortar. Then remove the adjusting wedges. Also join the plates in the same longitudinal direction (horizontal) with the same grout. Bumps, bumps and slightly damaged plates/piles may occur. With joint mortar you can do this Always update damage. After finishing and treatment with resin (see next step), these damages are no longer visible. With a motif on one side (= one-sided), only the motif side is important. The rear is secondary. resins 13. Has everything been completed and has the mortar cured sufficiently? Then bring after ± 4-5 weeks, apply the resin/varnish layer according to the instructions. 14. Make sure the concrete material is dry and free of dust when you use it starts to wax. When re-spraying, be sure to remove any moss attack. The ideal processing temperature is 18 °C (min. 12 °C): the plates should not feel really cold 15. The resin is ready to use, so you don't have to dilute. Keep the resin frost-free and shake the buses before use properly and completely. 16. Now you are ready to apply the resin. Best You get the result with an electric sprayer (available at Intergard) or with a compressor: • It is recommended that the sprayers have a nozzle with passage of 2.5 mm. • If you use a compressor, it is best not to use too much air pressure. Otherwise you will spray too much next to the plates and you may have too little product. Working with a porridge brush of ± 10 cm wide and short hairs is also possible. In that case, shake the cans well and always pour the entire canister empty into a bucket. Dip deep enough into the product, otherwise you are working with foam or air. Bring apply the resin in at least 2 layers (and sufficiently thick) and check for any drips.